Morning Chronicle - Fashion world 'afraid' of Trump, says Belgium's Van Beirendonck

Talking to AFP after his menswear show at Paris Fashion Week, Van Beirendonck said he hoped more creative people and leaders in fashion would take a stand on Trump's "disgusting" rhetoric.

Van Beirendonck show featured models with jackets bearing "peace, not war" badges and concluded with "Give Peace a Chance" by John Lennon and Yoko Ono.

"I think it's on everyone's mind. It's horrible what is happening in the world right now," he said. "Too much war, too much extreme right."

The 67-year-old said he wanted to react to Trump's inauguration on Monday "and I also hope that more creative people will react".

"They should talk more," he told AFP. "They are all afraid of selling less, the money is an issue, that's why we see the most incredible things happening and nobody is reacting."

The comments by the outspoken Antwerp-based independent designer come two days after Trump's inauguration in Washington, which was attended by French fashion tycoon Bernard Arnault and two of his children.

LVMH boss Arnault and his daughter Delphine, who runs Dior, were given prominent seats behind outgoing president Joe Biden and other past American leaders.

The European corporate fashion business, which is dominated by LVMH and Kering, is known to be worried about the possible impact of a trade war between the United States and Europe under Trump.

If Trump slapped tariffs on high-end European clothing and leather goods, American consumers would need to pay higher prices at a time when the luxury market is facing a global slowdown.

Van Beirendonck's show on Wednesday featured smatterings of his usual bright, clashing colours along with more classic loose-fitting suits in brown and navy Scottish tweeds.

He returned to his regular theme of encountering alien life, which he has used in the past as a symbol for diversity and outsiders.

- Brands in flux -

Paris Men's Fashion Week kicked off on Tuesday with Louis Vuitton artistic director Pharrell Williams presenting his fifth collection for the brand at the Louvre museum.

In a collaboration with his friend and Japanese designer Nigo, the show featured softly tailored suits in on-trend browns and tweeds, along with streetwear-inspired baseball jackets and long bermuda shorts.

Paul Smith and French brand 3.Paradis presented their autumn-winter 2025-2026 collections on Wednesday.

A number of top labels are bedding in new designers or looking for fresh inspiration in a market facing weaker-than-usual demand in China in particular.

Lanvin is set to return after a two-year hiatus on Sunday, presenting Peter Copping's debut collection as the artistic director of France's oldest couture house.

Notably absences include Givenchy, whose new chief designer Sarah Burton has reserved her first collection for Women's Fashion Week in March, as well as Loewe, whose artistic director Jonathan Anderson is rumoured to be on the way out.

Hedi Slimane left his role as artistic director at Celine in October, John Galliano quit Maison Margiela in December, and Chanel unveiled their new creative director, Matthieu Blazy, only a month ago.

D.Chapman--MC-UK